We’re invited to a swank hotel lobby, given beverages, finger food, and aprons. An excellent musician plays piano in the background. Lots of upscale people are milling around, waiting, like us. Finally, a chef from California instructs us to line up according to table numbers, and to put our hand on the shoulder of the person in front of us, like in kindergarten.
When our table number is called, our 10-person conga line approaches the ballroom door. We meet a blind man whose job is to take us to our table. He leads us into a ballroom that’s been transformed into a cave. Absolutely no light of any kind. Totally, completely, pitch dark. Impossible to see the person one foot in front of you, let alone where we’re going.
We snake around the ballroom, taking baby steps, until our blind leader tells us we’ve arrived at our round table. One by one he introduces each of us to our chairs. I sit down. It’s impossible to see anything. No light of any kind, anywhere.
I put my hands on the edge of the table, move my fingers around. I find some forks, a knife, a spoon. In front of me I feel the edge of a small plate. What’s on it? Salad. I lick the dressing off my fingers.
To the right and left I feel two more plates, smaller. Something soft and greasy on them. Butter! My butter? Or did I just stick my fingers in someone else’s butter? Well, it was the plate on the left, so according to my mom (the queen of table manners) it should have been my butter. But it could have been the butter of the former Wall Street banker on my left. Maybe she won’t notice.
Gently moving my right hand forward, I find a glass, with some cold liquid in it. Water? Better taste it and see. Yep. Hope it’s my water. I wonder if I can put it back in the same place and not spill it.
Forks on the left, where they should be. I’m hungry. Time to find out what’s in this salad. Not bad. Some kind of fruity dressing. But half that bite just fell into my lap. Might as well pick it up and put it where it belongs, in my gaping mouth. Nobody can see me.
Now that I think about it, why not just eat the whole darn salad with my fingers? Easier this way. Kinda messy, but efficient. I must look like a caveman, cramming wads of dripping lettuce into my food hole.
What if somebody is filming this with an infrared camera? Will I see myself on youtube tomorrow?
People are laughing, chatting, confessing to eating with their fingers. Good, I’m not the only one. My friend Heidi on my right, who invited me to this, asks me if the butter between us is mine or hers. I tell her I threw mine across the room. That gets a laugh.
Really hungry now. Why’s the main course taking so long? I guess it could take a while to serve 200 people when you can’t see anything. The blind waiter comes around asking if we want wine. Not for me, thanks. But the former Wall Street banker on my left does, and after the waiter leaves she swears he groped her breast.
Heidi’s kind of freaking out a little. She’s holding my hand a lot. It’s so dark. You can hear all these voices, but can’t see anything. Strange how it feels claustrophobic in this big room. The darkness is smothering. But it’s mostly fun. Because I know it will end.
Finally Heidi decides she has to “go to the bathroom.” A blind guide leads her back to the door and out. In reality, she could have gone anywhere. All I know for sure is her voice disappeared. Eventually she comes back, seeming slightly more relaxed.
Finally, the main course! I let my fingers do the walking. Something soft and warm and gooey. Mashed potatoes. This other soft thing feels like…green beans. Ah, here’s something substantial. Some kind of meat, probably. I pick up the knife on the right and start cutting.
Cutting what I can’t see is tricky. How much am I cutting? How hard should I press? When I finally get it cut, I lift it up to the general area of my mouth and can tell it’s a huge bite. Somehow I stuff it all in. Chicken! But something else too. Some kind of filling. Creamy and sweet. Somebody says pistachio. Could be. Whatever, it’s good and I’m starving.
The former Wall Street banker announces the waiter has groped her breast for the 4th time. I ask her out loud if she’s sure it’s him. That gets a laugh and she asks for my phone number. Love surfaces in the most unexpected places.
Now I’m back to using fingers. This knife and fork stuff just takes too long. And besides, nobody can see me, right? (Unless there really is an infrared camera.) I think my apron is gonna be a dead giveaway, though. Like a paintball uniform at the end of a battle. This is a messy meal and a lot of it is winding up many places besides my mouth. But it’s tasty. Even when it’s been in my lap first.
Dessert is some kind of cheesecake. I don’t want it so they bring me the largest fruit plate in history. I’m sure there’s no fruit left in the San Fernando Valley because it’s all on my plate. Enough to feed a colony of Malayan Flying Fruit Bats for a year. Nice variety. Pineapple, grapes, melons, but I’m too full now to eat much of it.
After two and a half hours it’s time for coffee. They wisely choose not to pour hot coffee in the dark, so the dimmest of lights comes on at one end of the room. But it’s enough! We can see! Audible sighs of relief. Ah, so that’s what everybody looks like! Wow. A lot more people in here than I realized.
A man gets up at a podium and tells us about the organization we’re raising money and awareness for. They assist the blind with all kinds of cool services. Then he announces we’re honoring a blind businessman, a man sitting at our table.
This person, a very successful corporate consultant who became blind as a teenager, gives the best ten minute talk I’ve heard in my whole life. He says it’s written that in the beginning God said “Let there be light.” But he doesn’t think that’s quite right. Because the dark is nothing to be afraid of. It’s the cold that’s really terrifying. What we really crave, he said, is warmth.
The warmth of each others’ hearts.
I think I begin to understand.
© 2008 Greg Tamblyn, Motivational Humorist and occasionally messy eater.
You can google “Dining in the Dark” for more info…
The Chinese government, out of concern for foreign sensibilities, has ordered that dog meat not be served in restaurants during the Olympics. It’s wonderful to know the dogs are safe for a couple of weeks. (No word, however about a similar reprieve for the Lamas in Tibet…)
My brain retains many colorful memories of China, many of which are about food. I have kind of a love/strange relationship with this admittedly mesmerizing country. Sort of like an old romance that continues to fascinate because of its weirdness. Going to China (three times!) was always a bit like going to another planet inhabited by friendly aliens.
In one town we stood outside a shop with crates of little animals on the sidewalk: chickens, ducks, rabbits, snakes, and some other creatures. Naturally we assumed it was a pet store. Strangely, however, there were no more cages inside. Instead, what we saw through the windows was a room full of tables and chairs….filled with people….happily munching on their selections from the sidewalk.
Real Chinese food is whole different universe of gustatory experience.
A fascinating activity is to stroll through an outdoor food market and count the number of dead animals you can’t identify. I made it to about 15 before I gave up. Our guide bragged that his fellow Chinese will eat “anything with 4 legs except a table, and anything that flies except a plane.”
In one nice eatery we were encouraged to try the fried crickets, chicken feet, and duck heads. Seriously. I know what you’re thinking. So how were they? Well, to be brutally, totally, bluntly frank about this, it was the one time in my adult life I can admit I would have been deliriously happy to see a McDonalds. Unless I wind up forgotten in a Turkish prison, lost in the Amazon, or starving in the Sahara, I will gladly leave certain poultry parts to the makers of dog food and fertilizer. And bugs? I refuse to steal the rightful food of birds and small rodents. Even to save face with the locals.
Like George Carlin famously said, “I don’t like eating something it looks like I should step on.”
Later, on a cruise down a river, I was riveted by a large jug of wine sitting on the lounge bar. It was a gallon jug of clear rice wine — with a dead snake in it about the size of the one that tried to eat Harry Potter. Snake wine. I’m not kidding. And, get this, made from a poisonous snake. (You see what I mean about another planet? Who would think of this?) Perhaps you’re saying to yourself, Oh sure, that’s weird, but it’s just some freaky tourist attraction to get people on that boat. My friends, have no doubt that what I tell you is true: snake wine is not only common, it’s a whole industry. (For verification of this, click the link at the bottom. You’ll be amazed.)
So there we were, cruising down this breathtakingly scenic river that had, over the eons, carved out the famous Karst topography which you so often see in hauntingly beautiful Chinese paintings of this area. After a couple of hours on the upper deck, a few of the American males in the group, including myself, went below to sit by the windows, drink beer, and engage in a joke telling session that produced some of the best laughs I’ve had in my whole joking lifetime.
Maybe it was the high level of our happy meter that brought the friendly bar gal over to our table. Whatever the reason, she showed up in the midst of our fun with a big smile and the aforementioned generous jug of snake wine (made from a poisonous snake!) for us to sample.
The thing is, I don’t drink much alcohol, so it affects me pretty quickly. By the time she showed up I’d had a couple of beers (maybe three?) and my resistance, to paraphrase the Borg, was futile. My compliance may also have had something to do with being in the company of four other macho Americans and not wishing to appear wimpish.
So, after a brief toast to the dead snake, we quaffed. As I recall, it tasted a bit like sake. In fact, it tasted exactly like sake. Except for the small piece of snake that got caught in my teeth.
It’ll be interesting to watch the Olympics and see how much of the real China gets through the broadcast filters. With any luck, they’ll be serving chicken feet and snake wine in Olympic Village.
© 2008 Greg Tamblyn, Motivational Humorist and occasional foreign traveler
* To visit Greg’s Group Travel page, click here.
* Click here to learn about snake wine and scorpion wine.
* Click here for pictures of weird food in the markets.
* The news is spreading. Here’s a NY Times article about the Chinese government forbidding serving dog meat at Beijing restaurants during the Olympics.